^  C  E  N  T  ^ 


AS 


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LAMPS  AND  SHADES 

IN  METAL  AND  ART  GLASS 


Eighteen  Complete  Designs 
with  Working  Drawings  and  Full  Directions 
for  Their  Making 


By  JOHN  D.  ADAMS 

AUTHOR  OF 

“ARTS-CRAFTS  LAMPS— HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM” 


CHICAGO 

POPULAR  MECHANICS  COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 


Copyright,  igii 
Bv  H.  H.  WINDSOR 


THE-GETT'/'  CtNTER 
LIBRARY 


This  book  is  one  of  the  series  of 
handbooks  on  industrial  subjects 
being  published  by  the  Popular 
Mechanics  Company.  Like  the 
Magazine,  these  books  are  “written 
so  you  can  understand  it,”  and  are 
intended  to  furnish  information  on 
mechanical  subjects  at  a  price  within 
the  reach  of  all. 

I'he  texts  and  illustrations  have 
been  prepared  expressly  for  this 
Handbook  Series,  by  experts;  are 
up-to-date,  and  have  been  revised  by 
the  editor  of  Popular  Mechanics. 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Introduction  .  9 

PART  ONE  :  BUILT-UP  SHADES 

Chapter  I — Droplights  .  15 

Chapter  II — Reading  Lamp  No.  1.... .  22 

Chapter  III — Reading  Lamp  No.  2 .  28 

Chapter  IV — Square  Dining-Room  Dome .  36 

Chapter  V — Mission  Chandelier  .  40 

PART  TWO :  SOLDERED  SHADES 

Chapter  I — Desk  Light  .  47 

Chapter  H — Droplight  No.  3 .  54 

Chapter  HI — Chandelier  .  57 

Chapter  IV — Hexagonal  Library  Lamp.... .  61 

Chapter  V — Hexagonal  Dome  .  68 

PART  THREE:  ETCHED  SHADES 

Chapter  I — Lamp  No.  1 .  75 

Chapter  H — Lamp  No.  2 .  81 

Chapter  HI — Lamp  No.  3 .  87 

Chapter  IV — Lamp  No.  4 .  94 

PART  POUR:  SAWN  SHADES 

Chapter  I — Conventional  Patterns  .  99 

Chapter  H — The  Butterfly  Design  . 106 

Chapter  HI — The  Pyramid  Design . Ill 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 

IN  METAL  AND  ART  GLASS 


INTRODUCTION 

TN  one  of  the  Popular  Mechanics  Handbooks  (“Arts- 
Crafts  Lamps — How  to  Make  Them”)  the  writer  has 
described  the  method  of  constructing  substantial  and  at¬ 
tractive  Arts-and-Crafts  lamps  from  such  simple  ma¬ 
terials  as  colored  paper  and  cardboard.  In  this  book  are 
presented  a  series  of  articles  on  home-made  lamps  in  the 
construction  of  which  metal  and  glass  are  utilized. 

The  subject  of  lamps  appeals  to  the  amateur  craftsman 
for  four  reasons : — the  importance  of  a  good  and  conven¬ 
iently  arranged  light;  the  pleasing  decorative  effects  that 
are  possible;  the  variety  and  number  of  lamps  that  may 
be  used  to  advantage  in  the  home ;  and  the  small  cost  of 
equipment  and  necessary  materials. 

In  the  handbook  referred  to  above  are  given  designs 
for  a  wide  diversity  of  lamps.  In  the  chapters  which  fol¬ 
low  the  intent  is  to  thoroughly  acquaint  the  reader  with 
the  several  methods  of  construction  that  come  within  the 
scope  of  the  amateur’s  modest  workbench,  so  that,  having 
learned  these  and  the  subsequent  possibilities,  no  difficulty 
will  be  found  in  executing  in  glass  and  metal,  instead  of 
paper  and  cardboard,  the  designs  of  my  first  book  as  well 
as  those  elaborated  in  these  pages. 

“It  is  easy  when  you  know  how,”  is  a  saying  that  is  as 
true  as  it  is  trite  when  applied  to  our  subject;  and  the 


9 


10 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


writer  has  never  yet  in  his  experience  with  the  manual 
arts  seen  disappointment  reward  the  amateur’s  efforts  in 
this  line  of  work.  Of  course,  one  must  have  that  enthu¬ 
siasm  and  interest  that  begets  patience ;  for  with  haste 
there  is  nothing  but  failure.  One  must  be  willing  to  take 
a  block  of  wood  and  trim  it  up  squarely,  smooth  the  end 
grain,  bevel  off  the  upper  corners,  all  with  mathematical 
accuracy,  or  the  base  of  the  lamp  will  not  have  the  true 
finished  effect.  This  means  patience  and  the  steel  square 
— but  that  is  all. 

Besides  a  little  simple  carpentry,  the  reader  should  be 
able  to  soft-solder,  use  a  small  breast  drill,  and  properly 
set  small  rivets.  The  use  of  the  lathe  or  other  machine 
tool,  forge  or  furnace,  is  not  required.  A  good  bench,  a 
vise,  a  small  assortment  of  drills,  a  hacksaw,  a  fretsaw,  a 
hammer,  a  soldering-iron,  are  about  all  that  are  required. 

There  are  four  distinct  methods  of  making  lamp  shades 
that  are  available  for  home  construction  : 

1.  Built-up  Shades — Those  having  their  frames  built 
up  from  strips  and  angles  of  brass  and  copper. 

2.  Soldered  Shades — Those  in  which  each  section  or 
piece  of  glass  is  bound  around  its  edges  with  thin  metal, 
so  that  the  whole  may  be  soldered  together. 

3.  Etched  Shades — Those  in  which  the  openings  in 
the  metal  are  eaten  or  etched  out  by  acid. 

4.  Sazvn  Shades — Those  in  which  the  metal  design  is 
sawn  out  with  a  small  fretsaw. 

Such  is  the  general  method  of  subdividing  our  subject, 
and  no  attempt  will  be  made  at  any  classification  based 


INTRODUCTION 


11 


on  the  type  of  lamp.  Our  object  is  primarily  to  set  forth 
the  different  constructive  methods  available. 

In  regard  to  the  construction  of  the  bases  and  stand¬ 
ards,  the  method  to  be  presented  is  particularly  adapted 
to  home  construction.  Metal  casting.?,  stampings,  spun 
metal  and  forgings  are  all  avoided.  Wood,  used  in  con¬ 
nection  with  such  simple  pieces  of  brass  and  copper  as 
may  be  easily  shaped,  forms  the  basis  of  construction. 
Let  the  wood  be  accurately  and  smoothly  finished,  stained 
with  some  reference  to  the  general  color  scheme  of  the 
room  in  which  it  is  to  be  used,  polished  so  as  to  develop 
the  graining,  and  finally  trimmed  with  the  necessary 
pieces  of  brass  or  copper;  and  we  have  a  combination  of 
materials  of  pleasing  contrast  and  susceptible  of  very 
artistic  treatment. 

'A’s  there  are  so  many  beautiful  kinds  of  glass  to  be  had, 
no  attempt  will  be  made  to  refer  to  each  variety  by  its 
trade  name,  so  that  the  general  expression  “art  glass”  will 
be  used  throughout.  Frosted,  mottled,  iridescent, 
watered,  opalescent  and  butterfly  effects  may  all  be  seen 
in  any  large  fixture  store.  If  your  local  dealer  can  not 
supply  you,  or  direct  you  to  the  proper  source,  send  a 
paper  pattern  to  some  dealer  in  manual  training  supplies. 


T^OTE :  Throughout  this  book  all  measurements  are 
stated  in  inches,  and  for  that  reason  the  conven¬ 
tional  sign  has  been  omitted. 


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Detail  of  Droplight  No.  2 


13 


Droplight  No.  1 

(For  detail  working  drawing  see  preceding  page) 


Hampg  anb  ^tjabesj 


PART  ONE— BUILT-UP  SHADES 

CHAPTER  I 

DROrLIGHTS 

T^HE  simplest  form  of  built-up  shade  is  that  used  for 
droplights  and  may  be  made  with  either  parallel 
or  slanting  sides,  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  Let  us 
consider  the  parallel  form. 

First  procure  a  small  supply  of  sheet  brass  not  over 
one-fiftieth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  even  less  for  the 
narrow  crossbars.  Mark  out  on  this  the  strips  that  will 
be  necessary  to  form  the  various  angles — twelve  in  all — 
and  then  accurately  cut  them.  If  a  tinshop  is  in  the 
vicinity,  take  the  brass  there  and  cut  it  on  the  foot 
trimmer,  as  there  will  then  be  no  curling  or  twisting  of 
the  strips.  Get  clearly  in  the  mind  the  relative  positions 
of  the  one  vertical  and  two  horizontal  members  at  each 
corner  where  they  make  a  triple  connection;  and  then 
trim  off  the  strips  to  the  exact  lengths.  Two  or  three 
dressed  strips  of  hardwood  should  now  be  obtained,  so 
that  the  strips  may  be  properly  held  in  the  vise  and  with¬ 
out  marring  them.  Draw  a  line  accurately  down  the  cen¬ 
ter  of  each  strip  to  be  bent,  and  then  clamp  them  between 
the  hardwood  strips  as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  The  bending 
should  then  be  done  with  the  edge  of  a  third  strip  of 


15 


16 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


wcx)d,  the  lower  edge  of  which  must  be  kept  well  down 
toward  the  vise  so  as  to  make  a  sharp  bend.  A  uniform 
strip  of  angular  section  can  be  produced  only  when  the 
bending  has  been  done  uniformly  along  the  entire  length 


at  the  same  time.  If  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  hammer  in 
finishing  apply  it  to  the  block,  hitting  rather  lightly,  and 
never  twice  in  the  same  place  in  succession.  Should  a 
vise  not  be  available,  the  next  best  plan  is  to  fasten  two 
strips  of  hardwood  to  a  piece  of  board,  leaving  a  very 
small  slit  between  them,  into  which  the  strip  of  metal 
may  be  placed  for  bending,  as  shown  in  the  lower  part  of 
Fig.  I. 


18 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


In  connecting  up,  the  four  angle  strips  of  any  one  side 
are  first  joined,  after  which  the  vertical  and  horizontal 
crossbars  are  inserted.  The  four  members  of  the  side 
directly  opposite  are  then  to  be  connected  in  the  same 
manner,  after  which  the  two  complete  sides  so  formed 
are  connected  by  the  four  remaining  angle  strips — one  at 
the  top  and  bottom  of  each  of  the  other  two  sides.  It 
will  usually  be  found  advisable  to  use  small  rivets  at  the 
top  connections,  which  hold  the  pieces  together  in  a  man¬ 
ner  that  permits  their  being  adjusted  squarely  as  the  bot¬ 
tom  pieces  are  placed  and  soldered. 

To  hang  the  shade,  either  one  of  two  methods  may  be 
adopted.  The  simplest  way  is  to  provide  two  strips  of 
rather  heavier  brass  and  bend  their  ends  so  that  they  will 
arch  across  the  top  as  shown.  At  the  place  of  crossing 
a  hole  is  bored  for  the  cord  to  pass  through,  and  the  four 
ends  are  riveted  or  soldered  to  the  top  angle  strips.  The 
shade  will  then  hang  directly  on  the  top  of  the  socket. 

In  the  second  and  more  substantial  method,  a  cross¬ 
piece  is  provided  with  a  hole  large  enough  to  allow  the 
nipple  in  the  top  of  the  socket  to  pass,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
2.  These  nipples,  when  of  metal,  are  usually  double- 
ended,  in  which  case  the  upper  portion  must  be  sawn  off 
with  the  hacksaw. 

In  the  tapering  form  of  drop  shade  the  general  method 
of  construction  is  identical,  except  that  there  are  prac¬ 
tically  no  right  angles.  One  should  first  lay  out  the  shade 
full  size  and  with  sufficient  accuracy  to  enable  all  angles 
being  measured  direct  from  the  plat.  The  upper  corner 
angles  are  quite  a  little  larger  than  90°,  and  the  lower 


DROPLIGHTS 


19 


ones  naturally  as  much  less.  Before  proceeding  with 
the  bending,  place  the  two  strips  of  hardwood  in 
the  vise  and  plane  off  the  upper  edges  at  the  proper 
angle.  The  upper  angle  strips  may  then  be  bent  up  the 


Fig.  2 


Method  of  Hanging;  a  Shade 


slope,  and  the  lower  ones  down.  In  this  way  we  get  one 
angle  as  much  more  as  the  other  is  less  than  90°. 

When  the  entire  frame  has  been  assembled,  brighten 
up  the  outer  surfaces  with  some  old  emery  cloth,  after 
which  apply  a  coat  of  lacquer.  Even  ordinary  frosted 
glass  makes  an  excellent  appearance  with  a  finish  of  this 
character. 


CHAPTER  II 

READING  LAMP  NUMBER  ONE 

T  ET  us  now  carry  out  on  a  somewhat  more  extensive 
scale  the  method  described  in  the  previous  chapter 
for  making  a  brass  lamp-shade  frame,  and  as  a  reward 
we  shall  have  the  attractive  reading  lamp  that  forms 
the  subject  of  the  accompanying  illustration.  It  should 
be  remembered,  however,  that  without  color  our  illustra¬ 
tion  does  poor  justice  to  this  lamp,  much  less  giving  any 
adequate  idea  of  the  appearance  when  illuminated.  The 
glass  is  of  a  milky  white  streaked  with  blue,  and  when  lit 
up  is  very  suggestive  of  sky  and  water.  The  scenic  effect 
is  made  from  thin  brass,  hammer-marked  and  somewhat 
oxidized,  which  appears  a  dead  black  at  night. 

The  first  step  will  be  to  make  a  plat  of  one  side  of  the 
shade,  noting  that  the  slant  distance  is  7  in.  and  not  6  in. 
From  a  consideration  of  this  determine  the  amount  of 
material  necessary,  and  get  clearly  in  mind  the  method  of 
making  the  triple  connection  at  each  corner.  If  any 
doubt  exists  on  these  points,  it  would  be  well  to  cut  and 
bend  into  angles  some  strips  of  light  cardboard  or  tbin 
tin,  so  that  a  preliminary  frame  may  be  constructed.  The 
various  pieces  of  the  temporary  structure  may  then  be 
taken  apart  and  flattened  out  to  serve  as  patterns  in  work¬ 
ing  up  the  brass  or  copper. 

Having  bent  the  twelve  angle  strips  between  wood,  as 
described  in  the  preceding  chapter,  the  four  members  of 


22 


READING  LAMPS 


23 


one  side  should  be  soldered  or  sweated  together.  The 
opposite  side  is  next  formed,  and  then  connected  to  the 
first  by  means  of  the  four  remaining  angle  strips.  Dur¬ 
ing  the  setting  up,  keep  the  plat  constantly  at  hand  so 
that  all  angles  will  be  correct  and  uniform. 


Fig.  3 


Securing  the  Glass  in  Place 

Some  simple  scenes  should  be  decided  upon  and  then 
drawn  out  on  paper  full  size.  Procure  the  necessary 
amount  of  thin  (say,  one-sixty-fourth)  brass  or  copper, 
and  transfer  the  designs  thereto  by  means  of  carbon 
transfer  paper.  Cut  out  with  the  tin-snips,  and  then  beat 
up  the  design  with  the  ball  end  of  the  hammer  over  a 
block  of  hardwood.  Foliage,  tree  trunks,  etc.,  should  be 
accentuated.  The  metal  should  then  be  thoroughly 
cleaned  with  soap  and  water,  after  which  it  may  be  dark- 


24 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


ened  by  a  solution  of  potassium  sulphide  and  water. 
Copper  may  be  colored  by  simply  heating  to  the  proper 
degree.  A  little  fine  emery  or  pumice  is  then  used  to  rub 
up  the  highlights,  after  which  the  pieces  are  attached  to 
the  frame  by  tacking  them  with  solder  to  the  inside  of 


Attaching  Socket  to  Standard 


the  corner  angle  strips.  A  paper  pattern  is  now  to  be 
made  so  that  the  glass  may  be  properly  ordered.  To  se¬ 
cure  this  in  place  we  may  solder  into  the  corner  angles 
some  small  pieces  of  brass,  as  at  A  in  Fig.  3,  which  are 
bent  over  when  the  glass  is  placed.  Where  a  little  more 
space  is  available,  adopt  the  method  shown  at  B,  bending 
the  two  ends  over  onto  the  glass,  as  at  C.  If  the  glass  is 
heavy  and  accurately  fitted,  as  at  D,  only  two  of  the  four 


READING  LAMPS 


25 


pieces  need  be  secured,  and  these  only  at  the  top  and 
bottom. 

The  base  of  the  lamp  is  composed  of  a  single  block  of 
wood,  which  is  completely  beveled  off  on  top,  with  the 
exception  of  a  space  2  in.  square,  in  the  center  of  which 
a  %-in.  square  hole  is  mortised  to  receive  the  end  of  the 
standard,  which  is  now  to  be  gotten  out  and  tenoned  to 
match.  The  upper  end  of  the  standard  is  built  out  so  as 
to  form  a  cap,  and  is  then  drilled  out  for  the  socket  to 
fit  in,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  See  that  the  nipple  is  securely 
screwed  into  the  socket  and  fits  tightly  into  the  wood. 
When  ready  to  screw  it  down,  apply  a  little  glue  to 
harden  the  fibers  and  fill  all  interstices.  Drill  a  ^-in. 
hole  lengthwise  clear  through  the  standard,  and  then  cut 
a  groove  in  the  under  side  of  the  base — all  for  holding 
the  electric  cord.  Attach  the  base  and  standard  togethei* 
with  glue  on  the  mortise-and-tenon  joint.  When  dry, 
apply  the  necessary  stain  and  filler,  and  polish  with  wax 
when  dry.  Prepare  the  four  brass  or  copper  brackets 
and  attach  them  with  round-head  screws.  The  four  thin 
bracket  arms  that  support  the  shade  are  now  to  be  made 
and  attached,  after  which  the  placing  of  the  shade  in  posi¬ 
tion  completes  the  lamp. 


statics! 


CHAPTER  III 

READING  LAMP  NUMBER  TWO 

JN  offering  a  second  lamp  with  a  scenic  shade  it  is 
not  our  intention  to  go  over  the  ground  of  the  preced¬ 
ing  chapter,  but  rather  to  point  out  some  of  the  modifica¬ 
tions  possible  with  this  interesting  type  of  lamp. 

In  the  first  place  it  will  be  noted  that  the  shade  has  a 
greater  spread  and  less  of  a  slope  than  reading  lamp  No. 
r,  thus  making  it  better  adapted  to  a  32-candlepower  or 
even  a  strong  tungsten  light.  The  socket  should  be  oper¬ 
ated  by  a  drop  pull. 

If  desired,  the  entire  framework  of  the  shade  may  be 
made  of  copper  and  thorougbly  hammered,  in  which  case 
it  will  be  found  best  to  do  the  hammering  before  forming 
tbe  strips  into  angles.  Should  the  strips  become 
hardened  during  the  process,  soften  them  by  heating  over 
the  gas  flame.  On  account  of  the  sharp  angle  of  the 
shade  the  reader  will  do  well  to  visit  the  local  tinshop 
and  secure  some  thin,  flat  strips  of  tin,  from  which  he  can 
make  and  fit  a  preliminary  frame,  thus  avoiding  all 
danger  of  spoiling  the  copper.  In  this  manner  all  angles 
involved  may  be  made  plain  and  the  entire  task  greatly 
simplified.  The  metal  is  now  to  be  colored  by  oxidizing 
it  with  some  solution  such  as  potassium  sulphide  and 
water,  after  which  rub  up  the  highlights  and  apply  a  coat 
of  lacquer  to  make  the  effect  permanent. 

A  new  feature  in  the  metal  work  of  this  lamp  is  the 

2& 


29 


Metal  Standard  for  Reading  Lamp  No.  2 


30 


READING  LAMPS 


31 


lengthened  brackets  that  support  the  shade.  These 
should  be  made  of  stock  measuring  %  in.  by  Yz  in.,  and 
may  be  trimmed  up  on  their  lower  ends  in  any  attractive 
form.  Attach  them  with  round-head  brass  screws.  And 
by  the  way,  let  not  the  reader  imagine  that  there  is  any¬ 
thing  inherently  inartistic  in  screwheads,  or  that  there  is 
any  great  reason  why  we  should  go  out  of  our  way  to 
conceal  them.  Carefully  finished  metal  on  well  finished 
wood  has  the  peculiar  attractiveness  of  a  scientific  instru¬ 
ment.  But  the  effect  is  entirely  lost  if  the  screwheads 
are  rough  or  burred.  Place  each  screw  in  the  breast  drill, 
which  is  then  clamped  in  the  vise  so  that  one  hand  will 
be  free  to  polish  the  head  with  old  emery  cloth. 

The  woodwork  of  this  lamp  will  require  some  little  care 
on  the  part  of  those  whose  experience  in  carpentry  is  just 
beginning.  After  trimming  up  squarely  and  to  the  exact 
size,  the  base  block  should  first  be  marked  as  in  Fig.  5. 
Saw  off  first  the  two  slices  that  run  across  the  grain. 
Plane  down  to  line  before  cutting  off  the  other  two  slices. 
Use  sandpaper  only  when  placed  on  a  small  block,  so  that 
all  surfaces  will  be  flat,  and  all  angles  and  corners  sharp. 
The  four  small  feet  are  now  to  be  glued  and  tacked  on 
with  small  brads,  allowing  them  to  project  a  trifle  beyond 
the  base,  so  that  when  the  glue  has  set  they  can  be 
trimmed  off  exactly  flush.  Mortise  a  i-in.  hole  in  the 
center. 

The  standard  will  also  present  some  opportunity  for 
accurate  work,  on  account  of  the  widened  base  and  the 
attached  tenon  that  fits  into  the  base.  Trim  up  the  piece 
of  timber  accurately,  and  then  mark  it  off  with  guide 


32 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


lines,  as  in  Fig.  5.  First  saw  out  two  sides  directly  op¬ 
posite  and  finish  these  down  to  line  before  cutting  into  a 
third  side.  Of  course,  this  job  might  be  delegated  to  the 
neighboring  carpenter,  but  in  that  case  our  lamp  would 
not  be  strictly  home-made.  Work  slowly  and  without 


- y 


Fig.  7 


Attaching:  Socket  to  Metal  Standard 


hurry,  keeping  the  try-square  at  hand,  and  all  will  go  well. 
The  central  hole  for  the  cord  should  be  about  the  size  of 
a  lead-pencil,  and  on  account  of  its  length  will  have  to  be 
drilled  from  both  ends.  Set  up  the  mortise-and-tenon 
joint  with  glue  and  clamp  firmly  until  dry. 

The  stain  must  be  evenly  applied.  When  dry,  put  on 
a  coat  of  filler,  rubbing  off  all  the  surplus  from  the  sur- 


READING  LAMPS 


33 


face.  When  this  has  dried  well,  the  piece  is  to  be  lightly 
sandpapered,  and  then  rubbed  up  with  wax. 

Attach  the  socket  to  the  standard  as  shown  in  Fig.  4, 
and  run  the  cord  down  the  central  hole  and  out  to  one 
side.  The  bottoms  of  the  four  feet  should  be  covered 
with  felt. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  have  done  some  Vene¬ 
tian  iron  work  or  forging,  we  append  Fig.  6,  showing 
how  a  standard  may  be  made  by  suitably  bending  four 
strips  of  metal  and  fitting  them  around  a  central  brass 
tube,  to  the  upper  end  of  which  the  socket  is  attached,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  7.  The  cord  runs  down  this  tube  and  then 
out  to  one  side  through  a  groove  in  the  base. 


CHAPTER  IV 

SQUARE  DINING-ROOM  DOME 

TN  selecting'  the  glass  for  a  dining-room  dome 
every  consideration  should  be  given  to  the  general 
color  scheme  of  the  room.  With  any  of  the  better  forms 
of  art  glass,  such  as  the  mottled  effects  in  green,  amber 
or  pink,  no  further  decorative  features  need  be  added, 
beyond  that  afforded  by  the  metal  framing.  It  may  be 
that  nothing  but  the  ordinary  rough  frosted  glass  is  avail¬ 
able,  in  which  case  a  few  added  lines,  suggestive  of  leaded 
glass,  will  not  be  inappropriate. 

Of  the  various  angle  strips  composing  the  frame,  only 
the  four  lower  ones  and  the,  short  corner  vertical  mem¬ 
bers  are  exact  right  angles.  If  the  reader  has  access  to  a 
machinery  supply  house,  it  would  be  well  to  procure  a 
sufficient  length  of  thin  square  brass  tubing  and  form  the 
angle  pieces  therefrom  by  filing  off  two  diametrically 
opposite  corners.  In  this  manner  perfect  angles  will  be 
obtained  which  will  form  a  very  accurate  foundation 
upon  which  the  remainder  of  the  structure  may  be  built. 

In  constructing  this  piece  some  small  clamps,  or  even 
spring  clothespins,  will  be  found  convenient.  Arrange 
the  bottom  angles  squarely  on  the  bench,  or  any  con¬ 
venient  surface  that  is  perfectly  flat,  and  set  in  a  few 
wire  brads  to  keep  them  from  shifting.  Trim  up  the 
four  vertical  corner  angles  to  the  exact  length  and  per¬ 
fectly  square  on  their  ends.  Set  these  in  position  with 


36 


Section  through  Top  of  Dome 


38 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


clamps,  and  then  attach  their  lower  ends  to  the  horizontal 
angles  with  solder.  From  the  drawing  determine  the 
angle  of  the  four  angle  strips  that  connect  the  top  to  the 
side  panels,  and,  after  the  method  illustrated  in  Fig.  i 
(page  i6),  proceed  to  bend  them  from  strips  of  brass 
about  a  fortieth  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  these  to  length  and 
trim  their  ends  to  the  proper  angle,  after  which  they  may 
be  set  up  and  clamped  in  place  ready  for  soldering.  The 
larger  square  block  at  the  top  is  now  to  be  made  ready, 
and,  after  bending  the  four  small  top  angle  pieces,  secure 
them  to  this  block  with  small  woodscrews.  The  block  is 
now  to  be  supported  above  the  bench  in  its  proper  posi¬ 
tion  relative  to  the  framework  thus  far  made,  in  which 
position  the  four  slanting  ridge  angles  may  be  fitted  in 
place.  When  everything  is  correctly  adjusted,  proceed 
with  the  final  soldering.  Often  a  small  alcohol  lamp  and 
blowpipe  will  be  found  much  more  convenient  than  a  sol¬ 
dering-iron.  as  there  is  then  no  danger  of  disturbing  the 
work.  After  soldering  in  some  small  clips  to  hold  the 
glass  (Fig.  3,  page  23),  the  frame  should  be  trimmed  up 
with  the  file  where  necessary,  any  extra  solder  removed, 
and  the  whole  rubbed  bright  with  old  emery  cloth.  The 
small  top  block  is  now  to  be  made  ready  and  applied,  after 
which  the  electric  fixture,  for  two,  three  or  four  lights 
as  desired,  must  be  placed.  In  Fig.  8  is  a  sectional  view 
through  the  top  of  the  dome,  showing  a  four-light  cluster 
improvised  from  ordinary  sockets.  A  piece  of  brass 
about  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick,  in  the  form  of  a  cross, 
has  a  large  hole  near  each  end,  through  which  the  nipple 
in  the  end  of  the  socket  may  pass.  By  screwing  the  nip- 


SQUARE  DINING-ROOM  DOME  39 

pies  up  tightly  the  sockets  are  all  held  firmly  in  place,  and 
may  be  arranged  at  the  proper  angle  by  bending  the  ends 
of  the  brass  cross  upward.  A  small  block  serves  to  main¬ 
tain  the  lights  at  the  proper  distance  from  the  roof  of  the 
dome. 

The  supporting  chain  may  be  of  metal  or  wood.  If  of 
the  latter  material,  the  reader  will  find  an  easy  way  of 
constructing  it  described  in  Popular  Mechanics  handbook 
on  “Arts-Crafts  Lamps.”  The  wires  are  run  out  through 
a  hole  in  the  top  and  follow  up  the  chain  to  the  ceiling. 


italics! 


CHAPTER  V 

MISSION  CHANDELIER 

TN  the  construction  of  the  four  lanterns  of  this  Mis¬ 
sion  chandelier  a  dull  black  finish  in  connection  with 
plain  frosted  glass  would  be  quite  appropriate.  The  cost 
of  the  material  will  be  insignificant  if  this  arrangement  is 
decided  on,  as  all  the  metal  frames  may  be  of  heavy  tin 
painted  a  dull  black. 

Procure  the  four  pieces  to  form  the  tops  and  a  supply 
of  I -in.  strips  for  the  corner  and  bottom  angles.  Cut  the 
top  pieces  to  the  pattern  shown  in  the  accompanying 
working  drawing,  and  bend  it  along  the  dotted  lines. 
Make  the  connection  between  the  first  and  last  sections 
with  a  few  small  rivets.  Shape  up  the  supporting  loops 
from  some  heavy  copper  wire,  flattening  the  ends  so  that 
they  may  be  riveted  to  the  top.  Mark  the  positions  of 
the  corner  angles  and  drill  small  holes  for  the  rivets. 
The  forming  of  the  angles  may  now  be  undertaken  as 
heretofore  set  forth  in  Fig.  i,  that  is,  between  wooden 
strips.  In  determining  the  proper  lengths,  allow  about 
a  half  inch  for  bending  over  and  riveting  to  the  top,  which 
operation  may  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  the  angle  strips 
are  ready.  The  bottom  angles  are  next  to  be  gotten  out 
and  soldered  in  place,  due  care  being  taken  that  the  frame 
is  perfectly  true  and  square.  Into  the  inside  angle  of 
each  corner  piece  solder  a  pair  of  small  tin  clips,  to  be 
bent  over  later  to  hold  the  glass.  See  Fig.  3,  page  23. 


40 


44 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


We  now  come  to  the  lattice  work,  and  here  several 
methods  present  themselves.  Sixteen  in  all  are  required. 
A  very  neat  way  is  to  get  the  necessary  material  in  brass 
or  copper  and  saw  them  out  all  at  once  with  a  small  fret¬ 
saw.  Another  method  is  to  etch  them  out  with  nitric 
acid.  With  very  thin  tin  and  a  hardwood  or  lead  block, 
they  may  be  cut  one  at  a  time  with  a  sharp  knife.  And 
lastly  they  may  be  cut,  several  at  a  time,  from  heavy  black 
paper,  and  cemented  to  the  glass  panes. 

All  the  metal  should  be  thorougbly  washed  with  soap 
and  water,  and  dried,  so  as  to  remove  any  trace  of  the 
soldering  fluid.  Paint  with  drop  black,  and  while  this  is 
drying  proceed  with  the  ceiling  plate.  This  may  be  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  from  each  arm  of  which  a  lamp  is  sus¬ 
pended,  or  in  the  rectangular  form  shown.  The  four 
pieces  are  first  to  be  trimmed  up  to  the  exact  length, 
and  then  beveled  off  on  their  ends  as  shown.  The  joints 
are  all  crosslapped,  that  is,  each  piece  of  wood  is  re¬ 
duced  to  one-half  its  thickness  at  the  point  of  crossing, 
so  that  the  two  will  fit  together  perfectly  flush.  Mark 
these  connections  out  with  pencil  and  square,  and  with 
all  possible  accuracy.  Saw  carefully  and  not  too  deep, 
after  which  the  intervening  wood  should  be  slowly  re¬ 
moved  with  a  sharp  chisel.  The  cutting  and  fitting  com¬ 
pleted,  apply  fresh  carpenter’s  glue,  and  clamp  until  dry, 
taking  due  care  that  the  assembled  frame  lies  perfectly 
flat.  When  set,  the  edges  are  to  be  beveled  ofif,  and 
grooves  cut  in  the  upper  side  for  the  wiring.  Sandpaper 
and  apply  the  necessary  stain.  When  dry,  sand  again, 
and  if  the  wood  is  of  an  open  texture,  such  as  oak,  apply 


MISSION  CHANDELIER 


45 


a  filler,  thoroughly  wiping  ofif  the  surplus.  This  having 
dried,  sand  lightly  and  finish  with  a  vigorous  application 
of  wax.  It  now  only  remains  to  set  in  four  screweyes, 
connect  the  chains  and  lamps,  and  our  chandelier  is  ready 
for  hanging. 


Desk  Lamp  with  Soldered  Shade 


46 


Hamps;  anb  ^fjabcsi 


PART  TWO  — SOLDERED  SHADES 

CHAPTER  I 

DESK  LIGHT 

T  N  this  chapter  the  reader  is  introduced  to  an  entirely 
different  method  of  constructing  lamp  shades.  This 
method,  briefly  stated,  consists  in  binding  all  the  edges 
of  each  piece  of  glass  with  thin  metal,  so  that  the  sev¬ 
eral  sections  can  then  be  soldered  together.  In  this  man¬ 
ner  shades  of  almost  any  form  may  be  built  up,  and  in  a 
truly  substantial  manner. 

Let  us  accept  as  our  initial  problem  with  this  mode  of 
construction  the  making  of  the  plain  desk  lamp  illustrated. 
First  procure  the  four  pieces  of  art  glass  and  some  strips 
of  thin  tin  about  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  wide.  These 
strips  must  now  be  bent  into  deep,  narrow  channels  to 
fit  over  the  edge  of  the  glass.  A  very  simple  jig  for  ac¬ 
complishing  this  is  shown  in  Fig.  9.  A  strip  of  triangular 
section  is  nailed  to  a  board,  say  about  a  foot  in  length. 
Adjoining  this  are  two  parallel  strips,  firmly  secured  to 
the  board,  but  with  narrow  spaces  between.  Insert  the 
strip  of  tin  in  the  first  narrow  slit,  as  at  A.  Bend  over 
with  the  edge  of  a  piece  of  board  to  position  B.  Place 
the  tin  as  at  C,  and  then  with  a  narrow  strip  of  hardwood 
or  iron  force  it  clear  down,  so  that  when  it  is  taken  out 


47 


48 


DESK  LAMP 


49 


it  will  have  the  shape  indicated  at  D.  This  latter  slot 
should  be  slightly  adjustable,  so  as  to  suit  the  thickness 
of  glass.  Be  sure  that  between  positions  A  and  B  the 
bending  goes  on  uniformly  along  the  entire  length  of  the 
strip. 

Having  formed  the  necessary  channels,  proceed  to  fit 


Simple  Jig  for  Bending  Strips 

them  around  the  edge  of  the  glass,  cutting  off  any  surplus 
with  the  file,  as  the  tin-snips  will  crush  the  piece  out  of 
shape.  When  ail  four  panes  have  been  thus  bound  all  the 
way  round,  heat  the  soldering-iron  and  fasten  the  over¬ 
lapping  pieces  of  tin  at  the  corners.  The  four  sections 
are  now  to  be  set  up  in  their  proper  relative  positions 
and  held  there  while  the  soldering-iron  connects  the  four 
corner  seams.  A  cross  section  through  a  corner  of  the 
shade  v/ill  be  as  in  Fig.  lo. 

The  tin  is  now  to  be  washed  and  gone  over  with  drop 


50 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


black,  which  dries  to  a  dull  finish.  With  the  second  and 
following  attempts  the  reader  may  use  thin  brass  and  cop¬ 
per  in  place  of  the  blackened  tin,  although  the  latter  is 
never  out  of  place  in  a  Mission  interior. 

The  base  should  be  treated  in  the  usual  manner — 
trimmed  up  true  and  square,  and  carefully  marked  with 


^o/c/er 


Fig.  10 


Cross  Section  of  Corner 


guide  lines  prior  to  sawing  off  the  beveled  sections.  Hav¬ 
ing  worked  the  piece  down  to  line,  thoroughly  sandpaper 
and  then  glue  on  the  four  small  foot  blocks.  The  half¬ 
inch  block  is  now  to  be  squared  up  and  mortised  in  the 
center  for  an  inch  tenon.  The  standard  will  require 
some  little  care  in  working  down  to  the  proper  taper  and 
in  forming  the  cap  on  top.  After  squaring  up  the  piece 
of  timber,  mark  out  the  guide  lines  (see  Fig.  5,  page  29) 
before  cutting.  Finish  any  two  opposite  sides  down  to 
line  before  starting  a  third.  The  socket  is  now  to  be 
fitted  to  the  top,  and  a  ^-in.  hole  drilled  down  the  cen- 


DESK  LIGHT 


51 


ter  for  the  electric  cord,  which  passes  out  to  one  side 
underneath  the  base.  The  three  pieces  of  wood  are  now 
to  be  glued  together,  and  while  the  glue  is  setting,  make 
ready  the  four  small  arms  that  support  the  shade.  These 
may  be  of  blackened  iron,  brass  or  copper.  When  the 
standard  has  been  stained  and  waxed,  attach  these  with 
screws,  screw  in  the  globe,  place  the  shade,  and  turn  on 
the  current. 


Detail  of  Droplight  No.  3,  with  a  Suggested  Variation  in  the  Design 


52 


Droplight  No.  3 


53 


^olberett  ^fjabesi 


CHAPTER  II 

DROPLIGHT  NUMBER  THREE 

T  N  the  initial  chapter  of  this  book  are  shown  two  forms 
of  droplight  shades  having  built-up  frames.  The 
accompanying  illustration  shows  a  third  and  somewhat 
larger  form,  and  depicts  a  different  mode  of  suspension. 
The  reader  will  understand,  of  course,  that  many  of  these 
designs  may  be  executed  by  some  other  method  than  the 
one  that  they  are  used  to  illustrate,  and  that  such  de¬ 
tails  as  the  suspending  of  the  socket  may  be  interchanged. 
The  tapering  shade,  however,  is  particularly  well  adapted 
to  the  soldering  method  of  construction  introduced  in  the 
first  chapter.  In  the  one  next  following  will  be  shown 
five  of  these  shades  used  in  connection  with  a  chandelier. 

The  art  glass  should  first  be  obtained,  and  a  stock  of 
thin  metal  strips — tin,  brass  or  copper — laid  in.  The  only 
practical  way  to  get  a  good  flat  strip  of  tin  without  any 
twist  is  on  the  foot-actuated  trimmer  at  the  tinshop.  A 
hundred  strips  may  be  cut  in  a  few  minutes  with  this 
device.  The  width  of  the  strips  will  ordinarily  be  from 
in.  to  I  in.,  depending  somewhat  on  the  size  of  the 
shade  and  the  thickness  of  the  glass.  Always  bend  be¬ 
tween  wood,  using  some  such  jig  as  that  illustrated  in 
Fig.  9,  page  49.  In  order  to  have  the  bend  occur  in  the 
exact  center  of  the  strips,  make  a  preliminary  trial  chan¬ 
nel  from  a  short  piece  about  an  inch  or  two  in  length.  It 


54 


DROP  LIGHT 


55 


will  almost  always  be  found  best  to  place  the  top  and  bot¬ 
tom  channels  on  each  piece  of  glass  before  placing  the 
side  channels.  The  former  should  never  come  quite  to 
the  edge,  whereas  the  latter  should  be  full  length.  The 
horizontal  and  vertical  crossbars  are  straight,  flat  strips 


Fig.  11 


Holding  the  Panels  in  Position 


of  metal,  cut  to  such  a  length  that  their  ends  will  fit  a 
trifle  under  the  edges  of  the  border  strips.  In  perform¬ 
ing  this  operation  take  care  not  to  bend  the  bars  so  much 
as  to  put  a  permanent  kink  in  them,  as  they  would  not 
then  lie  flat  against  the  glass.  Before  placing  these  they 
are  interlaced  through  a  hollow  square — generally  of  the 
same  metal,  although  copper  is  used  in  connection  with 
brass  with  pleasing  contrast.  Having  soldered  the  metal 
bindings  at  the  four  corners,  and  also  tacked  the  cross¬ 
bars,  the  assembling  should  be  commenced.  A  good 


56 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


method  of  holding  the  four  panels  in  position  for  solder¬ 
ing  is  shown  in  Fig.  ii.  The  box  in  the  center  should 
be  adjusted  in  height  to  the  correct  position  and  then 
tacked  down.  Accurately  space  off  eight  nails  around  so 
that  the  bottom  edges  of  the  panels  will  not  slip  outward. 
The  illustration  shows  only  three  of  the  four  glass  panes 
in  position. 

The  socket  is  supported  by  a  plain  piece  of  brass 
soldered  across  the  top  as  shown  in  the  working  drawing. 
To  this  strip  the  socket  is  held  by  means  of  tbe  nipple, 
as  previously  set  forth  in  Fig.  2,  page  19.  A  second  strip 
bridges  across  the  top  about  a  half  inch  above  the  first 
and  at  right  angles  to  it,  and  to  this  latter  strip  a  j4-in. 
brass  tube  is  soldered.  This  tube  is  the  main  support  and 
conceals  the  wiring.  It  may,  of  course,  be  entirely 
omitted,  and  the  shade  hung  directly  on  the  socket.  Its 
presence  is  simply  a  matter  of  appropriateness  with  the 
conditions  under  which  it  is  to  be  used.  It  will  be  noted 
that  a  variation  in  this  shade  is  suggested  in  the  working 
drawing. 


^olbereb  ^fiabeis 


CHAPTER  III 

CHANDELIER 

gLABORATE  though  this  chandelier  may  at  first 
glance  appear,  its  making  in  reality  involves  no  con¬ 
structive  features  other  than  those  presented  in  the  two 
preceding  chapters.  The  shades  are  identical  with  the 
one  shown  in  the  last  working  drawing. 

If  the  interior  is  in  the  Mission  style,  or  on  the  bun¬ 
galow  order,  a  very  good  combination,  and  one  that  is 
quite  inexpensive,  is  plain  frosted  glass  used  in  connec¬ 
tion  with  tin  painted  a  dull  black.  In  this  case  the  brass 
hanging-tubes  will  be  replaced  with  wrought-iron  chains, 
also  painted  black.  The  exchange  of  the  tubes  for  chains 
may  be  made  when  the  shades  are  worked  up  in  brass, 
in  vTich  case  the  chains  will,  of  course,  be  of  brass  also. 
With  the  better  grades  of  art  glass,  the  mottled  pink  and 
amber  effects  go  well  with  the  plain  brass  finish,  and  the 
green  tones  with  copper  or  blackened  tin.  When  brass 
or  copper  is  used,  the  soldering  should,  if  possible,  be 
done  from  the  inside,  and  then  rather  neatly. 

The  dimensions  of  the  ceiling  plate  are  all  given  in  the 
working  drawing.  If  desired,  the  rectangular  form  of 
plate  described  in  Chapter  V  of  Part  One  may  be  used, 
in  which  case  four  instead  of  five  lights  will  be  used. 
In  the  present  form,  however,  only  one  cross-lapped  joint 
is  necessary,  and  the  carpentry  in  general  is  much 


57 


59 


60 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


simpler.  Each  tube  should  be  fitted  clear  through  the 
wood  and  secured  by  a  small  plate  or  washer  soldered  on. 
Liberal  grooves  are  to  be  cut  along  the  upper  face  of  the 
two  members  of  the  cross  to  receive  the  wiring,  which 
may  be  tapped  through  the  ceiling  at  any  suitable  point. 

Even  when  the  lights  are  to  be  controlled  by  a  wall 
switch,  it  is  often  best  to  provide  each  shade  with  a 
drop  pull,  so  that  one  or  more  of  the  shades  may  bt 
darkened  as  desired. 


^olbereb 


CHAPTER  IV 

HEXAGONAL  LIBRARY  LAMP 

P^OR  home  construction  there  is  but  one  practical 
method  of  making  a  large  hexagonal  shade,  and  that 
is  the  method,  previously  described,  of  binding  all  the 
edges  of  each  piece  of  glass  with  thiij  metal  and  then 
soldering  the  bound  sections  together. 

The  six  pieces  of  glass  must  be  cut  with  all  possible 
accuracy,  because  the  final  shape  of  the  shade  is  entirely 
dependent  on  them.  In  Fig.  12  are  given  the  dimensions 
of  one  section.  As  there  are  some  rather  sharp  angles,  fit 
four  strips  of  paper  around  the  glass,  so  that  when  they 
are  flattened  out  again  they  will  form  correct  patterns. 
Having  procured  the  necessary  number  of  strips  of  tin 
from  the  tinsmith,  cut  them  up  to  agree  with  the  paper 
patterns,  accurately  shaping  the  ends,  so  as  to  avoid  sub¬ 
sequent  filing.  The  strips  are  now  to  be  bent  into  nar¬ 
row  channels  that  will  closely  fit  over  the  edges  of  the 
glass.  Fit  on  the  top  and  bottom  strips  first.  These 
pieces  should  not  come  quite  to  the  edge  of  the  glass. 
The  side  strips  are  then  placed  and  soldered  at  their  ends 
to  the  two  strips  previously  placed.  Any  roughness  or 
surplus  solder  should  now  be  removed,  and  the  six  sec¬ 
tions  of  glass  set  up  ready  for  soldering  together.  A 
convenient  method  of  holding  them  in  place  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  II,  page  55.  The  best  soldering  solution  is  that 
made  by  dissolving  as  much  zinc  as  possible  in  muriatic 


61 


64 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


acid.  The  shade  is  now  to  he  carefully  washed  with  soap 
and  water,  and,  when  dry,  painted  with  drop  black,  which 
dries  with  a  dull  finish. 


Fig.  12 


Pattern  Dimensions 


In  this  lamp  the  woodwork  will  prove  rather  more 
exacting  than  usual,  so  that  if  the  reader  does  not  fancy 
this  part  of  the  task  it  might  be  well  to  substitute  one 
of  the  standards  previously  described.  The  base  block  is 
first  to  be  trimmed  up  to  a  true  hexagon,  after  which 
carefully  mark  out  all  the  necessary  guide  lines  to  aid  in 
the  sawing.  The  remainder  of  the  task  is  simply  one  of 
patient  application  of  the  plane  and  sandpaper. 

The  standard  should  first  be  planed  up  to  a  hexagonal 


HEXAGONAL  LIBRARY  LAMP 


65 


section  large  enough  to  accommodate  the  3-in.  cap  and 
base.  The  intervening  column  will  then  be  worked  down. 
In  doing  this  choose  the  second  face  to  be  cut  directly 
opposite  the  first.  With  two  diametrically  opposing  faces 
smoothed  down  to  line  and  parallel,  additional  guide  lines 
may  be  drawn  on  them  to  facilitate  the  remainder  of  the 
cutting.  The  socket  will  next  be  fitted  to  the  upper  end, 
which  should  be  hollowed  out  so  as  to  let  it  set  in  for 
about  three-eighths  of  an  inch.  Bore  a  hole  down  the  cen¬ 
ter  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil,  so  that  the  wires  may 
be  run  down  from  the  socket  and  out  to  one  side  through 
a  groove  in  the  base.  Coat  the  lower  end  of  the  standard 
with  glue  to  fill  the  pores,  and  when  this  is  dry  apply  a 
second  coat,  after  which  the  standard  is  to  be  attached 
to  the  base  block  with  two  or  three  screws  set  in  from 
below.  When  dry,  remove  the  surplus  glue,  sandpaper 
well  and  stain  if  desired.  Filler  should  be  applied  to 
open-grained  woods,  such  as  oak.  Finish  with  a  thorough 
application  of  wax. 

It  now  remains  to  provide  three  or  six  projecting 
arms  to  support  the  shade.  These  may  be  of  brass  strips 
screwed  directly  to  the  top  of  the  standard,  or  soldered 
to  a  brass  ring  encircling  the  socket,  which  ring  may  then 
be  fastened  with  screws  to  the  top  of  the  standard. 


66 


^olbercJj 


CHAPTER  V 

HEXAGONAL  DOME  FOR  LIBRARY  LAMP 

TJEFORE  proceeding  to  the  third  division  of  our  sub- 
ject  we  present  herewith  an  attractive  hexagonal  din¬ 
ing-room  dome — a  lighting  fixture  which  fully  exemplifies 
the  possibilities  of  “soldered”  shades.  This  method  of 
shade  constructing  has  been  fully  described  in  the  preced¬ 
ing  chapters,  and  merely  consists  of  binding  all  the  edges 
of  each  piece  of  glass  with  tin  or  other  thin  metal,  which 
is  soldered  at  the  corners.  The  various  sections  of  glass 
thus  bound  may  then  be  soldered  together. 

Reference  is  again  made  to  Fig.  9,  page  49,  which  rep¬ 
resents  a  jig  designed  to  bend  the  thin  metal  strips  into 
channels  without  bends  or  kinks.  Hammers,  pincers  and 
the  like  will  not  produce  uniform  section,  as  the  bending 
must  proceed  uniformly  along  the  entire  length  of  the 
strip  at  the  same  time. 

The  six  vertical  side  sections  are  first  to  be  bound  and 
soldered  at  their  corners  where  the  strips  of  tin  overlap. 
Set  these  up  on  some  convenient  and  perfectly  flat  sur¬ 
face,  bracing  them  by  means  of  triangular  blocks.  This 
method  of  bracing,  but  applied  to  a  shade  with  only  four 
sides,  is  shown  in  Fig.  14.  Test  with  the  square,  and  then 
solder  the  vertical  seams.  Fig.  13  gives  the  dimensions 
for  the  slanting  panels.  Cut  this  shape  out  of  cardboard, 
and  then  apply  it  to  the  vertical  sections  to  make  sure  that 
it  is  correct,  allowing;  of  course,  for  the  metal  binding  to 


68 


HEXAGONAL  DOME 


G9 


be  placed  around  the  edges.  When  the  glass  for  the  six 
slanting  sections  has  been  cut,  bind  each  section  at  the 
top  and  bottom  first  and  then  at  the  sides.  Solder  the 
overlapping  corners  of  the  tin  strips  and  then  remove  any 
roughness.  Next  find  some  block  or  box  to  assist  in  the 


Fig.  13 


Dimensions  of  Slanting  Panels 


setting  up,  and  after  adjusting  it  to  the  proper  height, 
tack  it  down  to  keep  it  from  shifting.  The  remaining 
sections  may  then  be  placed  as  in  Fig.  14,  and  the  four 
slanting  corner  seams  soldered  tight.  With  soap  and 
water  thoroughly  remove  all  soldering  acid,  and  then  dry. 
Paint  with  a  dull  black  paint.  If  brass  or  copper  is  used, 
simply  tack  the  sections  together  at  the  top  and  bottom. 


VO  LAMPS  AND  SHADES 

after  which  the  remainder  of  the  seams  may  be  soldered 

from  the  inside. 

In  Fig.  15  is  shown  the  method  of  supporting  the  as¬ 
sembled  shade.  A  hexagonal  block  somewhat  larger 
than  the  opening  in  the  top  of  the  shade  is  provided,  and 


Fig.  14 

Method  of  Holding  Sections  in  Position 


the  shade  placed  upside  down  upon  it,  after  which  a  thin¬ 
ner  hexagonal  block  with  beveled  edges  is  dropped  in  and 
securely  fastened  down  with  screws.  A  smaller  block  is 
finally  placed  on  top,  and  a  large  screweye  set  in  to  con¬ 
nect  with  the  chain.  In  locating  the  point  for  this  screw, 
make  a  preliminary  test  to  be  certain  that  the  shade  is 
perfectly  balanced. 

Fig.  15  also  gives  a  very  simple  method  of  improvising 
a  three-,  four-  or  six-light  cluster  for  the  dome.  A  piece 
of  sheet  metal  about  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  thick  is  cut 


Fig.  15 

Method  of  Supporting  the  Assembled  Shade 


J 


Y2 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


with  as  many  arms  as  there  are  lights.  Drill  a  hole  in 
each  arm  so  that  the  nipple  that  screws  into  the  top  of 
the  socket  may  be  slipped  through  and  set  up  tight.  These 
nipples  may  be  had  for  a  few  cents  at  any  electrical  sup¬ 
ply  store,  and  are  usually  two-ended,  in  which  case  one 
end  must  be  removed  with  the  hacksaw.  In  this  manner 
ordinary  sockets  may  be  arranged  in  any  form  and  at 
almost  any  desired  angle  by  bending  the  ends  of  the  pro¬ 
jecting  arms  of  the  central  piece.  A  square  block  at¬ 
tached  in  the  roof  of  the  dome  affords  a  means  of  fas¬ 
tening  the  cluster  in  place.  The  wires  are  let  out  through 
a  small  hole  in  the  top  near  the  center  and  should  then 
closely  follow  up  the  chain.  A  simple  method  of  making 
a  wooden  chain  is  clearly  set  forth  on  page  26  of  my 
book  on  “Arts-Crafts  Lamps,”  in  the  Popular  Mechanics 
Handbook  Series. 


Eampsi  anb 


PART  THREE  — ETCHED  SHADES 

CHAPTER  I 

LAMP  NUMBER  ONE 

/^NE  of  the  most  interesting  methods  of  making  a 
lamp  shade  is  that  involving  the  process  of  etching. 
A  piece  of  brass  or  copper  is  cut  to  the  proper  shape  to 
form  the  shade,  and  is  then  painted  with  some  acid-proof 
paint  all  over  except  those  portions  of  the  design  that 
are  to  be  eaten  out.  When  dry,  the  metal  is  immersed 
in  a  solution  of  one  part  nitric  acid  to  two  parts  water 
until  the  unpainted  portions  are  eaten  away.  {Caution: 
Always  pour  the  acid  into  the  water,  not  the  water  into 
t'he  acid.  Pouring  the  water  into  the  acid  causes 
violent  boiling  and  is  extremely  dangerous  to  hands  and 
clothing).  The  sheet  is  then  cleaned  and  bent  in  the  form 
of  the  shade. 

The  advantages  of  this  method  are  that  designs  of 
almost  any  degree  of  complexity  may  be  worked  out,  and 
all  without  kinking  or  dinting  the  original  surface  of  the 
metal.  In  fact,  etching  is  the  only  method  of  handling 
real  thin  brass  or  copper  for  our  purpose.  This  process 
will  be  set  forth  by  drawings  and  descriptions  of  four 
portable  lamps,  which,  for  convenience,  we  will  simply  re¬ 
fer  to  by  number,  as  the  shade,  the  material  for  the  lin- 


75 


76 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


ing,  the  base  and  standard,  etc.,  are  all  subject  to  consid¬ 
erable  variation. 

In  lamp  No.  i  we  make  use  of  the  square  form  of 
shade,  having  a  cherry  design  etched  through  the  metal, 
which  should  be  about  a  fiftieth  of  an  inch  thick.  Ac- 


Fig.  16 

Further  Detail  of  Lamp  No.  1 

curately  cut  out  the  form  of  the  side  of  the  shade  on 
paper,  draw  out  the  design,  and  then  mark  off  the  pattern 
four  times  on  the  metal,  transferring  the  design  by  means 
of  ordinary  carbon  transfer  paper.  Cut  away  the  sur¬ 
plus  metal  with  the  tin-snips.  Go  over  the  lines  with 
some  sharp-pointed  instrument,  so  that  they  will  not  be 
obliterated  when  the  piece  is  washed  and  dried,  which 
operation  it  must  now  undergo.  Procure  about  ten  cents’ 
worth  of  black  asphaltum  paint  or  varnish,  and  paint  the 
entire  sheet  of  metal  with  the  exception  of  the  cherry 
design,  which  is  to  be  eaten  through. 


ETCHED  SHADES 


11 

If  a  large,  fiat  tray  for  holding  the  etching  solution  is 
not  at  hand,  one'  that  will  withstand  the  acid  may  be 
made  of  wood  by  lining  it  with  pitch  or  tar.  Melt  the 
pitch  in  a  can  and  pour  it  into  the  wooden  tray,  which 


Fig.  17 


Another  Style  of  Shade  Support 

should  then  be  tipped  about  in  all  directions  until  it  is 
coated  all  over. 

The  etching  solution  is  composed  of  one  part  nitric  acid 
to  two  parts  water.  When  the  asphaltum  is  quite  dry,  im¬ 
merse  the  piece,  allowing  it  to  remain  until  eaten  through. 
Kerosene  or  turpentine  will  then  be  found  convenient  in 
removing  the  asphaltum,  after  which  the  piece  is  to  be 
thoroughly  washed  and  rubbed  up  bright  with  pumice  or 
old  emery  cloth.  The  piece  is  now  bent  along  the  radial 


7b 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


doited  lines  in  Fig.  i6,  which  operation  may  be  best  done 
over  the  sharp  edge  of  the  table.  The  first  and  last  sec¬ 
tions  are  then  connected  by  means  of  the  extra  strip  pro¬ 
vided  for  that  purpose.  The  connection  may  be  made 
by  solder,  small  rivets  or  paper  fasteners,  as  desired.  The 
shade  is  now  ready  for  the  glass,  which  is  held  in  place 
by  bending  over  the  extra  strips  at  the  top  and  bottom. 

The  base  and  standard  of  this  little  lamp  are  so  simple 
as  to  require  but  little  explanation.  All  corners  must  be 
kept  sharp  and  square,  and  the  lower  end  of  the  standard 
accurately  mortised  into  the  base  block.  Glue  will  be 
used  on  this  connection  and  also  to  hold  the  four  small 
bracket  blocks  in  place.  A  three-eighths  hole  runs  down 
the  center  to  carry  the  cord  from  the  rocket.  The  four 
foot  blocks  are  covered  with  felt  attached  with  glue. 

The  supports  for  the  shade  may  be  of  strips  of  brass 
or  heavy  copper  wire  flattened  out  on  the  ends  so  that 
they  may  be  screwed  to  the  upper  end  of  the  standard. 

In  Fig.  17  is  suggested  a  second  method  of  supporting 
a  shade,  in  which  the  four  supporting  arms  run  well  up 
into  ihe  shade  and  there  engage  some  small  clips  pro¬ 
vided  for  that  purpose. 


Lamp  No.  2  —  Conical  Form 


79 


Detail  of  Lamp  No.  2 


80 


Ctcfieb 


CHAPTER  II 

LAMP  NUMBER  TWO 

T  N  lamp  No.  2  we  make  use  of  the  conical  form  of 
shade  and  avoid  the  use  of  glass  altogether,  unless,  of 
course,  we  happen  to  have  on  hand  a  suitable  shade  for 
which  we  wish  to  provide  a  brass  or  copper  covering. 
The  present  design  contemplates  the  use  of  colored  paper, 
or  some  appropriate  fabric,  such  as  silk,  for  the  lining  of 
the  etched  metal  frame.  This  fact,  together  with  the 
gentle  process  of  etching,  which  avoids  practically  all 
hammering,  soldering  and  riveting,  renders  this  process 
of  lamp-shade  construction  especially  adapted  to  amateur 
handicrafters  of  the  gentler  sex. 

The  process  of  laying  out  and  etching  will  all  be  car¬ 
ried  out  as  in  the  preceding  article.  Fig.  19  gives  the 
necessary  dimensions  for  drawing  the  pattern,  but  as  the 
reader  may  desire  a  shade  of  different  angle  and 
diameter,  a  brief  explanation  will  be  given  of  the  method 
of  developing  conical  shades  in  general — a  form  of  shade 
for  which  the  etching  process  is  particularly  well  suited. 

Fig.  18  is  a  diagram  intended  to  make  this  clear. 
Imagine  the  sides  of  the  shade  continued  up  to  a  point. 
If  the  cone  thus  formed  is  now  rolled  on  a  flat  surface 
it  will  travel  within  a  circle  having  a  radius  R,  this  radius 
being  equal  to  the  length  of  the  slanting  side  of  the  cone. 
In  the  same  manner  the  peak  added  to  the  shade,  to  com¬ 
plete  the  cone,  will  travel  in  a  circle  of  radius  r.  There- 


81 


Method  of  Developing  Conical  Shades 


ETCHED  SHADES 


83 


fore  the  desired  pattern  will  lie  between  the  two  circles 
of  radii  R  and  r.  If  the  base  of  the  shade  is  divided,  for 
example,  into  eight  parts,  then  the  points  i,  2,  3,  etc.  on 
the  shade  will  occupy  positions  i,  2,  3,  etc.,  on  the  circle 
R.  It  will  therefore  only  be  necessary  to  measure  off 


Dimensions  for  Pattern  of  Lamp  No.  2,  with  Suggested  Variation  in  the  Design 


along  the  circle  R  a  distance  equal  to  the  larger  circum¬ 
ference  of  the  shade.  In  this  manner  a  shade  of  any 
angle  or  diameter  may  be  drawn. 

In  rolling  or  bending  an  open-work  shade,  such  as  the 
one  illustrated,  some  little  care  must  be  exercised  to  ob¬ 
tain  the  true  conical  form.  The  very  rigid  pattern  shown 
was  chosen  for  its  simplicity,  but  any  conventional  flower 
or  fruit  design  may  be  worked  out  in  the  same  manner. 

If  the  metal  is  brass,  it  may  be  oxidized  or  simply 
rubbed  up  bright,  but  in  either  case  a  coat  of  lacquer 


84 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


should  be  applied  to  preserve  the  effect.  Copper  may  be 
given  an  old  effect  by  simply  heating  to  the  proper  de¬ 
gree,  and  finished  with  lacquer  or  an  application  of  wax 
and  turpentine  in  equal  parts.  With  the  latter  metal, 
a  lining  of  sheer  or  raw  silk  of  a  rich  green  tone  is  par¬ 
ticularly  effective. 

The  most  exacting  feature  in  the  construction  of  the 
wooden  standard  is  the  forming  of  the  top  and  bottom 
projections.  The  piece  of  wood  must  first  be  squared 
up  and  marked  with  guide  lines,  as  in  Fig.  5,  page  29,  after 
which  any  two  sides  directly  opposite  may  be  worked 
down  to  line.  These  sides  are  then  marked  and  the  two 
remaining  sides  cut  down,  after  which  the  hole  through 
the  center  for  the  cord  is  to  be  bored.  When  the  base  has 
been  beveled  off  and  accurately  finished,  cut  a  mortise  in 
the  center  for  the  standard  and  set  up  the  joint  with  glue. 
After  staining  and  waxing,  screw  on  the  four  pieces  of 
heavy  copper  wire  to  support  the  shade,  which  may  then 
be  placed. 


Lamp  No.  3  — An  Effect  in  Copper 


85 


Detail  of  Lamp  No.  3 

H6 


CtcfjeiJ  ^Ijaires! 


CHAPTER  III 

LAMP  NUMBER  THREE 

T  N  shades  such  as  that  on  the  lamp  shown  in  the  accom¬ 
panying  illustration,  where  the  space  occupied  by  the 
design  is  small  in  comparison  with  the  total  surface,  some 
very  artistic  effects  may  be  had  by  using  copper,  which 
colors  so  beautifully.  The  “waxed”  finish  has  a  soft 
satin  sheen  and  is  easily  accomplished.  The  copper  may 
be  colored  by  heating  or  by  an  application  of  potassium 
sulphide  and  water,  after  which  the  highlights  are  rubbed 
up  bright.  Melt  some  beeswax  and  add  an  equal  amount 
of  turpentine.  Heat  the  metal  over  a  clean  flame  to  such 
an  extent  that  the  wax  will  run.  When  cool,  the  surface 
is  vigorously  polished  with  a  soft  cloth.  If  the  shade  is 
of  brass  it  may  be  colored  by  a  solution  of  butter  of 
antimony. 

With  lamp  No.  3  we  introduce  the  reader  to  the  bead 
fringe,  which  may  be  purchased  by  the  yard  at  a  very 
reasonable  price  and  in  several  colors.  The  lining  of  the 
shade  may  be  of  colored  paper  or  silk,  tbe  effect  of  which 
can  only  be  judged  at  night  by  holding  it  before  a  light. 

Fig.  20  gives  the  dimensions  necessary  for  the  shade 
pattern,  which,  it  will  be  noted,  is  divided  into  six  parts. 
The  number  of  these  divisions  will,  of  course,  depend  on 
the  design  chosen,  but  the  dividing  must  be  accurately 
done,  else  the  irregularity  will  prove  quite  noticeable. 


87 


88 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


Such  motifs  as  the  grape  and  butterfly  work  up  very 
well,  and,  when  backed  by  the  proper  colors  and  illu¬ 
minated,  they  are  very  pleasing  indeed. 


Fig.  20 

Pattern  Dimensions  of  Lamp  No.  3 


Having  drawn  out  the  large  circles  on  the  sheet  brass, 
draw  out  the  design  on  paper,  and  then  transfer  it  to  the 
metal,  as  many  times  as  required,  by  means  of  carbon 
paper.  Make  the  lines  permanent  by  scratching  with  a 
sharp-pointed  instrument,  and  then  wash  with  soap  and 


Fig.  21 

Metal  Standard  for  Lamp  No«  3 


89 


90 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


water,  prior  to  painting  with  the  asphaltum  varnish, 
which  is  applied  to  all  parts  except  the  design.  When 
thoroughly  dry,  immerse  in  the  two-to-one  nitric  acid 
solution,  and  allow  to  remain  until  etched  clear  through. 
Remove  the  varnish  with  kerosene,  wash  again,  and 
polish  with  pumice  or  old  emery  cloth.  Carefully  bend 
into  the  conical  form,  fasten  the  ends  with  soft  solder, 
small  rivets  or  paper  fasteners,  as  desired,  and  proceed 
to  color  as  heretofore  directed.  The  shade  is  now  ready 
for  the  lining. 

The  base  and  standard  of  this  lamp  are  rather  attract¬ 
ive,  considering  their  simplicity.  The  base  will  first  be 
beveled  ofif  in  the  usual  fashion  and  mortised  for  the 
standard,  which  is  then  to  be  tenoned  to  match.  Drill 
the  central  hole  for  the  wires,  and  arrange  the  upper 
end  for  the  socket  as  previously  illustrated  in  Fig.  4,  page 
24.  Set  up  with  glue  and  test  for  squareness.  Stain  as 
desired,  and  when  it  is  dry  apply  filler  if  the  wood  is 
open-grained.  Finish  with  a  good  wax  rub.  Get  out 
some  strips  of  the  same  metal  as  the  shade,  and  shape 
them  up  into  the  four  slender  brackets.  These  are  then 
finished  like  the  shade  and  are  attached  with  round-head 
screws,  or  else  large-headed  upholstering  nails.  Draw  the 
cord  through,  screw  the  socket  in  place,  make  and  at¬ 
tach  the  four  small  arms  that  support  the  shade,  which  is 
next  to  be  applied,  and  our  lamp  is  complete. 

Fig.  2T  will  serve  as  a  suggestion  for  a  metal  in  place 
of  a  wood  standard.  The  curved  strips  should  not  be 
less  than  in.  wide,  and,  if  of  brass  or  copper,  may  be 


91 


ETCHED  SHADES 

readily  bent  as  shown.  The  wires  run  up  a  central  tube 
to  which  the  socket  is  attached  as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  page 
32.  If  desired,  the  base  may  be  of  hammered  brass  or 
copper. 


Detail  of  Lamp  No.  4 


92 


diEtcIb^ti 


CHAPTER  IV 

LAMP  NUMBER  FOUR 

F>  EFORE  taking  up  the  lamp  that  is  the  subject  of  the 
accompanying  illustration  and  the  last  one  to  be 
described  having  an  etched  shade,  let  us  sum  up  the  prin¬ 
cipal  points  of  this  method  of  shade-making.  In  the 
first  place  it  should  be  remembered  that  art  glass  can 
only  be  used  to  advantage  with  the  square  and  hexagonal 
forms.  Colored  paper  and  silk  fabrics  may  be  utilized  in 
place  of  glass  in  a  very  attractive  manner  with  the  conical 
form  of  shade.  Soldering,  riveting  and  hammering  are 
all  unnecessary.  The  very  thin  metal  used  makes  for 
lightness.  The  process  of  etching  permits  of  designs  of 
almost  any  degree  of  complexity  to  be  worked  out.  The 
surface  of  the  metal  is  always  smooth  and  free  from 
dints. 

The  present  design  makes  use  of  a  very  simple  conven¬ 
tional  pattern  on  the  shade.  In  these  later  days  of  so 
much  stenciling  the  reader  will  not  lack  for  suggestions 
along  this  line,  and  if  complete  and  conspicuous  harmony 
is  desired  in  a  room  the  same  motif  that  is  used  on  the 
walls  and  draperies  may  be  worked  into  the  shade. 

Fig.  22  gives  all  necessary  dimensions.  The  larger 
circles  and  the  radial  lines  of  the  eight  divisions  may  all 
be  drawn  directly  on  the  metal,  after  which  the  design 
is  to  be  drawn  out  full  size  on  paper,  from  which  it  may 


94 


Pattern  Dimensions  of  Lamp  No.  4 


96 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


then  be  transferred  to  the  metal  eight  times  by  means  of 
carbon  paper.  Remove  the  surplus  material  from  the 
edges  and  form  the  three  projecting  lugs,  which  will  be 
used  later  in  joining  the  two  ends  of  the  shade.  The 
metal  is  now  to  be  painted  with  asphaltum  at  all  points 
except  those  that  are  to  be  etched  clear  through.  Wax 
from  an  ordinary  candle  may  be  sometimes  used  to  ad¬ 
vantage  on  small  pieces,  which  are  heated  so  that  the 
wax  will  run.  The  places  to  be  etched  are  then  scraped 
clean. 

When  the  asphaltum  has  dried,  immerse  in  the  two-to- 
one  nitric  acid  solution.  A  moderate  bubbling  after  a 
few  minutes  indicates  that  the  solution  is  of  the  proper 
strength.  The  fumes  should  not  be  inhaled,  nor  the  acid 
allowed  to  touch  the  clothing  or  person.  The  etching 
completed,  remove  the  paint  with  kerosene  or  turpentine, 
wash,  dry,  and  polish  with  old  emery.  The  metal  is  now 
ready  for  coloring  and  finishing  by  any  of  the  methods 
previously  described.  The  simplest  finish  of  all  is  a 
plain  emery  rub,  followed  by  lacquer. 

The  three  slits  into  which  the  lugs,  shown  in  Fig.  22, 
fit  are  now  to  be  cut.  Slowly  and  uniformly  bend  the 
shade  into  conical  form,  insert  the  three  lugs  into  their 
respective  slits  and  bend  them  over.  The  shade  is  now 
ready  for  the  silk  or  paper  lining  and  the  bead  fringe. 
Any  small  holes  that  may  be  necessary  should  be  pierced 
with  a  fine  point  used  over  a  block  of  lead  or  hardwood. 

The  woodwork  is  a  trifle  more  elaborate  for  this  than 
for  the  preceding  lamps,  as  the  octagonal  form  of  the  base 
will  necessitate  all  possible  accuracy.  If,  however,  a  true 


ETCHED  SHADES 


97 


eight-sided  block  is  first  made  and  all  possible  guide  lines 
are  first  drawn  on  it,  the  sawing  and  subsequent  plane 
work  will  be  greatly  facilitated.  The  standard  is  first  to 
be  planed  up  square  and  to  full  size.  The  taper  and  cap 
will  then  be  formed,  and  finally  the  four  edges  will  be 
beveled  off.  Particular  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the 
lower  end  perfectly  square  so  as  to  leave  no  seam  around 
the  base  block.  The  central  hole  for  the  cord  is  now  in 
order,  and  then  the  four  small  brackets  should  be  fitted 
and  the  whole  made  secure  with  glue.  The  socket  is  yet 
to  be  fitted  (see  Fig.  4,  page  24),  and  a  groove  is  to  be 
made  across  the  bottom  to  permit  the  cord  to  pass  out, 
after  which  the  wood  finishing  may  be  attended  to.  Ar¬ 
range  for  the  bracket  arms  that  support  the  shade,  and 
when  these  are  attached  and  the  electric  bulb  screwed  in, 
nothing  remains  but  the  placing  of  the  shade. 


Sawn  Shade  of  Conventional  Design 


1lamp£i  ani)  states: 


PART  FOUR— SAWN  SHADES 

CHAPTER  I 

CONVENTIONAL  PATTERNS 

have  now  come  to  the  fourth  and  last  division  of 
our  subject,  viz.:  lamps  with  sawn  shades.  It  is 
appropriate  that  this  type  should  come  last,  because  its 
construction  is  possibly  the  most  exacting  of  all,  which 
fact,  however,  is  more  than  compensated  for  by  the 
special  attractiveness  of  this  form  of  shade. 

There  is  no  set  rule  for  the  thickness  of  the  brass  or 
copper,  except  that,  other  things  being  equal,  the  larger 
the  shade  and  the  more  open  the  design,  the  stouter 
should  be  the  metal.  Be  sure  that  the  metal  lies  perfectly 
flat.  Cut  out  the  pattern  shown  in  Fig.  22]^  on  a  piece 
of  flat  paper.  Mark  off  the  outline  on  the  metal  and  then 
transfer  the  design  by  means  of  carbon  transfer  paper. 
Accurately  retrace  the  lines  with  a  sharp-pointed  instru¬ 
ment  so  that  they  will  not  be  obliterated  while  handling. 
In  order  that  the  material  may  remain  flat,  try  to  have  it 
cut  to  size  on  the  foot  trimmer,  otherwise  the  surplus 
must  be  sawn  off.  The  tin-snips  will  have  very  little  use 
in  this  work.  Drill  a  small  hole  with  the  breast  drill  in 
each  piece  that  is  to  be  sawn  out,  so  that  the  saw  blade 
may  be  inserted.  Fasten  an  overhanging  block  to  the 


99 


100 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


bench  and  cut  a  V  slot  in  the  end,  as  in  Fig.  23.  Insert- 
the  saw  blade  through  one  of  the  holes,  place  the  sheet 
of  metal  on  this  block  with  the  saw  handle  below,  and 
proceed  to  saw  with  a  slow  uniform  stroke.  Always 
have  the  saw  teeth  pointing  toward  the  handle,  so  that 


k —  »3  — ^ 


Fig.  22>^ 


Pattern  of  Conventional  Sawn  Shade 

the  saw  will  cut  on  the  pull  stroke.  Without  a  sawing- 
block  such  as  this,  very  little  will  be  accomplished. 
When  all  the  pieces  have  been  removed,  the  edges  should 
be  gone  over  with  a  small  file,  several  shapes  of  which 
should  be  provided  so  that  access  may  be  had  to  all  angles 
and  corners. 

In  Fig.  24  are  shown  several  methods  of  connecting 
the  sawn  sheets  together  at  the  corner  angles.  Method 


Detail  of  Conventional  Sawn  Shade 


101 


\3k- 


102 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


A  is  best  used  on  heavy  and  accurate  work  and  necessi¬ 
tates  the  use  of  solder,  as  does  also  method  B.  Methods 
C  and  D  are  two  of  the  easiest,  as  ample  space  is  pro¬ 
vided  for  riveting. 

Having  joined  the  sections,  the  four  pieces  of  glass 


should  he  ordered  and  some  small  clips  fastened  inside 
to  hold  them  securely  in  place.  Several  ways  of  doing 
this  are  shown  in  Fig.  3,  page  23.  Before  placing  the 
glass,  however,  the  metal  should  be  brightened,  and  ox¬ 
idized  if  desired,  and  then  coated  with  lacquer  or  finished 
with  wax,  as  previously  described.  For  the  conventional 
pattern  illustrated  the  glass  having  a  green  effect  is  un¬ 
doubtedly  the  most  appropriate. 

In  the  working  drawing  will  be  found  all  necessary  di¬ 
mensions  for  the  woodwork,  which  is  about  as  simple 


CONVENTIONAL  PATTERNS 


103 


as  possible.  The  socket  should  be  of  the  pull-actuated 
variety  and  securely  set  into  the  top  of  the  standard, 
through  the  center  of  which  a  ^-in.  hole  is  to  be  drilled 
for  the  cord. 

The  four  shade  brackets  are  to  be  made  rather  heavy 


Fig.  24 

Methods  of  Joining  Sawn  Sheets 


— about  ys  in.  by  T2  in. — neatly  finished  on  their  lower 
ends  and  drilled  for  wood-screws.  If  the  ordinary  round- 
head  brass  screws  are  used  to  attach  these  brackets  to 
the  standard,  place  each  one  in  the  breast  drill  and  polish 
by  rapidly  rotating  against  a  piece  of  old  emery  cloth. 
Before  attaching  these,  the  treatment  of  the  wood  should 
be  attended  to.  If  the  surroundings  will  permit,  a  bog- 
green  stain,  followed  by  a  coat  of  filler,  well  wiped  off 
and  sandpapered  when  dry,  and  then  waxed,  will  be  very 
appropriate. 


Detail  of  the  Butterfly  Design 


104 


featun  ^Ijabes! 


CHAPTER  II 

THE  BUTTERFLY  DESIGN 

get  the  full  effect  of  the  accompanying  design 
one  should  use  art  glass  of  an  opalescent  or  pink 
shade,  rather  than  any  of  the  green  or  amber  tones. 
There  are  also  some  decidedly  iridescent  varieties  of  glass 
that  are  very  attractive  with  an  oxidized  copper  finish. 
The  butterfly  design  is  a  rather  delicate  one  to  saw,  and 
may,  if  desired,  be  somewhat  reduced  and  etched  out  to 
advantage  on  thinner  metal. 

Having  decided  whether  the  corner  edges  are  to  be 
bent  out  or  in,  soldered  or  riveted,  as  set  forth  in  Fig.  24 
of  the  previous  article,  the  pattern  should  be  drawn  out 
in  accordance  with  Fig.  25,  and  due  allowance  made  for 
the  corner  joints.  Any  bending  that  is  necessary  should 
be  done  before  soldering  and  while  the  plate  is  firmly 
clamped  between  stout  hardwood  strips,  beyond  which 
just  the  proper  amount  projects.  The  protruding  strip 
may  then  be  bent  over  with  the  edge  of  a  straight  piece 
of  wood.  Remember,  however,  that  the  angle  may  be 
considerably  more  or  less  than  90°,  according  to  the  na¬ 
ture  of  the  corner  connection  and  the  angle  of  the  sides. 
The  sawing  will  proceed  as  heretofore  directed,  after 
which  each  of  the  four  sheets  should  be  closely  inspected 
and  gone  over  with  a  fine  file  to  remove  any  imperfections 
and  to  work  the  pattern  exactly  down  to  line.  Attach 
some  small  clips  to  the  inner  corners  of  the  assembled 


106 


THE  BUTTERFLY  DESIGN  10*7 

shade,  so  that  when  the  glass  is  inserted  they  may  be 
bent  over  to  retain  it. 

The  base  block  is  absolutely  plain  in  this  lamp  and  has 
four  small  blocks  glued  on  the  under  side.  Extending 
around  each  comer  as  far  as  these  blocks  are  brass  or 


U - IZ  - J 


Fig.  25 

Pattern  Dimensions  of  the  Butterfly  Design 


copper  angles,  fastened  on  with  round-head  screws  or 
fancy  upholstering  nails.  A  square  hole  is  mortised  in 
the  center  to  receive  the  tenon  on  the  end  of  the  stand¬ 
ard,  which  is  now  to  be  taken  up.  Dress  the  piece  up 
full  3  in.  square  and  trim  off  the  ends  squarely.  Mark 
out  the  various  lines  to  guide  the  saw,  as  previously 
shown  in  Fig.  5,  page  29.  After  cutting  down  one  side, 
proceed  with  the  one  directly  opposite.  When  the  two 


108 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


are  worked  down  to  line,  guide  lines  may  then  be  drawn 
on  them  to  assist  in  cutting  the  other  two  sides.  While 
the  lines  are  all  quite  simple,  the  two  pieces  must  be 
worked  up  with  considerable  accuracy  and  with  good 
sharp  corners ;  otherwise  the  efifect  will  be  entirely  lost. 
The  plainness  of  the  top  is  relieved  somewhat  by  cutting 
a  small  groove  around  it,  after  which  the  socket  should 
be  fitted  in  place.  (See  Fig.  4,  page  24.)  Before  set¬ 
ting  it,  however,  do  not  forget  the  central  hole  for  the 
cord,  which  passes  out  under  the  base. 

The  four  brackets  that  support  the  shade  are  now  to 
be  made  ready,  and  in  working  out  their  lower  ends  to 
the  sinuous  point,  see  that  the  edges  are  kept  sharp  so  as 
to  fully  bring  out  the  shape.  When  these  are  drilled  and 
attached,  it  only  requires  the  placing  of  the  bulb  and  the 
shade  to  complete  the  lamp. 


Detail  of  the  Pyramid  Lamp 


no 


^atpn  states: 


CHAPTER  III 

THE  PYRAMID  DESIGN 

'"T^HERE  are  only  two  practical  methods  of  making  a 
pyramid  shade — either  etch  it  all  from  one  large 
piece  of  metal  and  bend  it  into  shape,  or  saw  the  four 
triangular  sections  from  heavy  brass  or  copper  with  such 
accuracy  as  to  permit  the  forming  of  the  sharp  point. 
Let  us  confine  ourselves  to  the  latter  method. 

The  four  slanting  corner  connections  will  be  made  by 
beveling  off  the  edges  of  the  sheet  metal  with  the  file  so 
that  they  may  be  soldered  together  as  in  Fig.  24  at  A, 
page  103.  After  the  sheets  are  all  sawn  they  can  be 
temporarily  clamped  in  some  improvised  angle  so  as  to 
hold  them  securely  while  soldering.  Remember,  however, 
that  these  angles  are  not  right  angles.  While  the  solder¬ 
ing  is  in  progress  the  clips  to  hold  the  glass  in  place 
should  also  be  attached. 

Fig.  26  gives  the  dimensions  of  the  triangle;  and  as 
for  the  design,  the  reader  has  surely  gone  far  enough  in 
this  series  to  devise  something  of  his  own,  or  at  least 
adapt  some  other  design  in  an  attractive  manner.  Orig¬ 
inal  work  carries  with  it  the  true  fascination. 

The  sawing  completed,  the  edges  of  the  pattern  cleaned 
up  with  a  small  file,  and  the  whole  put  together,  the  glass 
should  be  ordered,  which  is  not  to  be  left  with  any  very 
sharp  points,  as  a  slight  accident  is  apt  to  break  them 
off  and  in  so  doing  start  a  crack.  Before  inserting  the 


111 


THE  PYRAMID  DESIGN 


113 


glass,  brush  up  the  shade  with  emery,  and  if  an  oxidized 
effect  is  not  desired,  the  finish  may  be  completed  with  a 
coat  of  lacquer.  Brass  can  be  oxidized  with  butter  of 


Suggestion  for  Two  Lights 


antimony  solution,  and  copper  by  one  of  potassium  sul¬ 
phide.  Solutions  may  also  be  purchased  for  producing  a 
verdigris  effect  that  is  particularly  attractive  on  brass. 

The  base  and  standard  are  quite  similar  to  several  of 
those  shown  in  the  preceding  chapters.  Some  little  care 


114 


LAMPS  AND  SHADES 


v/ill  be  necessary  to  get  the  end  wood  perfectly  smooth 
and  scpiare,  and  also  to  form  the  quarter-round  groove 
across  the  grain.  Finish  this  groove  with  sandpaper 
wrapped  on  a  round  stick  of  the  proper  diameter.  Mor¬ 
tise  and  tenon  the  standard  and  base  together,  and  set  up 
the  joint  with  glue.  Fit  the  socket  to  the  top  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  drill  the  central  hole  for  the  wires.  Stain 
and  finish  the  wood  as  desired,  after  which  prepare  the 
four  metal  brackets  that  support  the  shade  and  attach 
them  with  round-head  brass  screws.  The  bulb  may  now 
be  screwed  in,  and  the  shade  placed  on  and  illuminated. 

In  Fig.  27  is  a  suggestion  for  providing  such  a  lamp 
with  two  lights,  and  for  supporting  the  shade  without  the 
use  of  the  four  bracket  arms.  The  standard  runs  clear 
to  the  top  of  the  shade,  where  it  is  pointed  to  the  proper 
angle  to  fit  the  shade,  which  is  then  attached  with  small 
screws.  If  suitable  fixtures  are  not  at  hand,  solder  a  flat 
strip  to  the  side  of  each  socket,  so  that  it  may  be  fastened 
to  the  side  of  the  standard.  If  the  soldering  is  incon¬ 
venient,  provide  suitable  strips  bent  so  as  to  pass  around 
the  sockets  and  clamp  them  firmly  to  the  standard. 


.■■•5 


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I 


Metal  Spinning 

By  PROF.  F.  D.  CRAWSHAW 

Assistant  Dean,  College  of  Engineering 
University  of  Illinois 

METAL  SPINNING  is  one  of  the  Popular 
Mechanics  Handbook  Series  and  has  8o  pages, 
33  illustrations,  is  bound  in  attractive  cloth 
covers  and  printed  on  a  fine  quality  of  paper. 

This  handbook  is  unique  in  that  it  is  the  only  book  pub¬ 
lished  on  this  interesting  art,  instructions  regarding  which 
have  previously  been  handed  down  by  word  of  mouth  from 
generation  to  generation  of  expert  metal  spinners. 

It  is  “Written  so  you  can  understand  it”  by  a  man  well 
qualified  because  he  has  made  a  thorough  study  of  all  obtain¬ 
able  information  on  the  subject.  He  has  tried  out  the  different 
methods  himself  and  herein  he  sets  forth  the  best  practice. 

Concise,  yet  complete,  this  book  is  adapted  to  use  as  a 
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follow  this  work  as  a  trade. 

Explicit  instructions  are  accompanied  by  figures  to  illus¬ 
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but  how  to  make  each  kind.  Definite  forms  to  be  spun  are 
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dealt  with. 

— Chapter  i,  The  Lathe  and  Its  Uses;  2,  Tools;  3,  The 
^  ■  Preparation  of  Metal  for  Spinning;  4,  How  to  Spin  a 

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How  to  Spin  Some  Unclassified  Forms. 

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16  Beautiy  Designs 

As  Follows : 

Two  Light  Portable — 
Portable  Reading  —  F our 
Light  Chandelier — Read¬ 
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Dome  —  Porch  or  Den 
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Chain  Hung  Chandelier- 
One  Light  Portable — Lan¬ 
tern —  Drop  Light — One 
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Mission  Furniture 

How  to  Make  It 

21  Excellent  Designs 

This  book  consists  of  a  number  of  articles 
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Forty  Styles  of  Chairs,  An  Easily  Made  Book-Shelf,  How  to 
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Rack,  How  to  Make  a  Tabouret,  Another  Mission  Chair, 
How  to  Make  a  Roll  Top  Desk,  Home-made  Lawn  Swing, 
A  Mission  Candlestick,  How  to  Make  a  Magazine  Stand, 
How  to  Make  a  Blacking  Case,  How  to  Make  a  Mission 
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Mission  Furniture 

How  to  Make  It 

32  New  and  Approved  Designs 

Complete  dimensioned 
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to  make,  and  half-tone 
illustrations  of  the  fin¬ 
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Special  Features  Are: 
Articles  describing  how 
to  produce  the  different 
finishes  and  showing 
methods  of  making 
joints  and  bending 
wood. 

“Written  So  You  Can 
Understand  It” 

May  be  ordered  of  any  news¬ 
dealer  in  the  U.  S.  or  will  be 
sent  to  any  address  postpaid 
upon  receipt  of  the  price, 
50  cents,  by  the  publishers. 

Cloth  Cover 


POPULAR  MECHANICS  COMPANY 

CHICAGO 


A  Large  and  Varied  Selection 
of  Immensely  Popular  Pieces, 
Among  Which  Are: 

Two  China  Closets — Two 
Arm  Chairs  — ■  Rocker  — 
Side  Chair — Mantel  Clock 
— Lamp  Stand — ^Two  Foot 
Stools  —Bookcase — Maga¬ 
zine  Table  —  Smoking 
Stand — Wall  Case — Waste 
Paper  Basket  —  Music 
Stand — Hall  Clock — Cedar 
Chest  —  Child’s  Dresser 

—  Couch  —  Oil  Lamp  — 
Grill — Two  Writing  Desks 

—  Library  Set  —  Buffet  — 
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—  Medicine  Cabinet  — 
Telephone  Stand  —  Plate 
Rack  —  Dining  Room 
Shade. 


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Part  Three 

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How  to  Make  It 

36  NEW  DESIGNS 

A  128  page  collection  of  excellent  new  designs  that  are 
entirely  different  from  those  in  the  books  Parts  One  and  Two 
previously  issued.  Those  already  in  possession  of  Parts  One 
and  Two  will  find  this  an  even  greater  value  in  variety  and 
excellence  of  the  plans. 

A  feature  of  the  new  book  is  a 

Complete  Set  of  Dining-Room  Furniture 

Designed  to  Harmonize  Perfectly 

Here  is  the  complete  list  of  pieces : 

Arm  Chair— Arm  Dining  Chair— Hall  Bench — Piano  Bench— Book  Rack- 
Book  Stand  and  Music  Rack — Book  Trough — Chafing  Dish  Buffet — Folding 
Card  Table — Side  Chair—  Writing  Desk — Dictionary  and  Magazine  Stand- 
Round  Dining  Table— Princess  Dresser— Fern  Stand — Foot  Warmer— Hall 
Tree— Library  Table — Magazine  Rack — Magazine  Stand— Pedestal  -  Plate 
Rack  —  Porch  Swing  —  Screen  —  Serving  Table— Settee— Sewing  Table — 
Sewing  Box— Wall  Shelf— Sideboard— Umbrella  Stand— Den  Table — Oak 
Table —  Tabouret—  Wardrobe—  Window  Seat. 

Price  50c  Postpaid  128  Pages  Handsome  Cloth  Binding 

If  you  are  at  all  handy  with  tools,  you  will  find  that  the 
plainly  written  directions,  dimension  drawings  and  half-tone 
illustrations  will  enable  you  to 

Make  Your  Own  Furniture 
and  Save  Two-Thirds 

The  many  who  use  tools  for  pleasure  will  find  this  book  a  working  guide 
which  will  furnish  many  moments  of  delightful  and  profitable  occupation 
while  several  of  our  readers  have  been  able  to  devote  their  entire  time  to 
this  work  by  disposing  of  what  they  have  made  at  a  nice  profit.  One 
man  made  and  sold  $400  worth  of  one  piece  alone. 

ASK  YOUR  BOOK  DEALER  or  address  the  publishers 

POPULAR  MECHANICS  BOOK  DEPT., 


A  GOOD,  USEFUL  BOOK 

Wood-Working  for 
Amateur  Craftsmen 

“WRITTEN  SO  YOU  CAN  UNDERSTAND  IT” 

By  IRA  S.  GRIFFITH,  A.  B. 


128  Pages,  125  Illustrations 
Cloth  Cover,  Size  5x7  inches 


Price 

50  Cents 

Postpaid 


One  of  the  latest  of  Popular  Mechanics  Series 
of  Industrial  Handbooks 


This  book  was  especially  designed  to  cover  every 
essential  step  from  the  A  B  C  to  the  X  Y  Z  of  wood¬ 
working.  The  chapters  dealing  with  making  special 
articles  bring  out  every  cut,  joint  and  process  used  in 
this  important  trade,  and  the  proper  use  and  care  of 
tools,  working  up  of  materials,  etc.,  are  treated 
thoroughly  and  plainly. 

CONTENTS: 

Making  Out  a  Stock  Bill— Laying  Out  Rough  Stock— Hand 
Saws — Sawing  with  Hand  Saws— Planes:  How  to  Set  and 
Adjust  the  Irons— Squaring  Up  Mill  Planed  Stock — Squar¬ 
ing  Up  Rough  Stock — Whetting  Plane  Irons  and  Chisels — 
Grinding  Plane  Irons  and  Chisels  —  Making  a  Bird  Box  — 
Making  a  Tabouret — How  to  Make  an  Umbrella  Stand — Mak¬ 
ing  a  Magazine  Stand — Making  a  Table — Making  a  Cabinet. 

A  valuable  book  for  either  self  instruction  or 
use  in  manual  training  courses 


Order  of  your  Newsdealer,  Bookseller  or  direct  from 


Popular  Mechanics  Book  Dept.,  Publishers 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS 


Metal  Work  and  Etching 

“WRITTEN  SO  YOU  CAN  UNDERSTAND  IT” 

By  JOHN  D.  ADAMS 


ONE  of  the  latest  of  the  POPULAR 
MECHANICS  series  of  industrial 
handbooks.  A  complete  manual  for 
art  metal  workers  giving  every  detail  for 
making  a  great  variety  of  useful  and  orna¬ 
mental  objects  such  as  book  ends,  desk  sets, 
pad  corners,  paper  knives  and  letter  openers, 
stationery  racks,  rocking  blotter,  desk  calen¬ 
dars,  match  boxes,  tie  and  pipe  racks,  whisk 
broom  holders,  candle  sconce,  arts  and  crafts 
jewelry,  hinges,  drawer  pulls,  etc. 

g6  Pages^  Richly  Illustrated^  Cloth^  Size  Inches 

Price,  50  Cents,  Postpaid 


ORDER  OF  TOUR  NESTSDEJLER,  BOOKSELLER,  OR 

Popular  Mechanics  Book  Dept.,  Publishers 

CHICAGO 


NOW  READY 


Elrrtroplattng 

“WRITTEN  SO  YOU  CAN  UNDERSTAND  IT” 

By  henry  C.  REETZ 


One  of  the  latest  of  Popular  Mechanics  Series  of 
Industrial  Handbooks 

T^HIS  handbook  gives  brief  and  practical  direc- 
^  tions  calculated  to  be  of  benefit  to  those  already 
engaged,  as  well  as  to  those  about  to  engage,  in  the 
electroplating  business,  with  no  more  technical 
detail  than  is  necessary  for  practical  work,  and 
yet  with  such  explicit  directions  concerning  the 
actual  operations  as  an  old  hand  at  the  business 
thinks  may  be  useful  to  the  beginner. 

CONTENTS: 

Introduction  —  Electrical  Equipment  —  Shop  Equipment 
Cleaning  Goods  before  Plating — Copperplating — Nickelplating 
—  Silverplatirig — Goldplating  —  Miscellaneous  —  First  Aid  to 
the  Injured  —  Business  Suggestions. 

'  '  '  Order  of  your  Newsdealer,  Bookseller  or 

POPULAR  MECHANICS  BOOK  DEPT. 

PUBUSHERS  CHICAGO 


READ  THIS  WONDERFUL  STORY 


HEAT 

By  J.  GORDON  OGDEN,  Ph.D. 

PROF.  OF  PHYSICS.  FIFTH  AVENUE  HIGH  SCHOOL,  PITTSBURG 

Price  Postpaid,  SO  Cents 

128  Pages  Bound  in  Cloth  Illustrated 


Thoroughly  Understandable - Instructive 

Immensely  Interesting 

This  book  consists  of  a  series  of  articles, 
each  complete  in  itself,  yet  all  pertaining 
to  heat  and  its  relation  to  modem  mechanics. 

Few  people  realize  that  fire  is  the  most  remarkable  and 
valuable  discovery  ever  made  by  man.  Prior  to  this,  man 
was  brother  to  the  brute,  but  with  the  coming  of  fire, 
came  all  the  wonderful  development  that  has  enabled  man  to 
assert  and  defend  his  claim  as  lord  of  creation.  We  are  only 
in  the  infancy  of  high  temperature  development,  yet  read 
of  the  harnessing  of  intense  heat  to  the  wheels  of  progress; 
the  contrivances  whereby  we  are  able  to  emulate  the  vol¬ 
cano  in  our  laboratories  so  far  as  heat  is  concerned  and  weld 
steel  rails  in  the  street  where  they  lie;  the  discovery  of  uses  of 
rare  metals  in  industrial  lines  by  aid  of  heat.  Investigation  of 
the  realm  of  low  temperatures  also  discloses  some  wonderful 
facts.  All  these,  and  many  other  phases  of  this  interesting 
subject  are  treated  as  shown  by  the  following  list  of  chapters: 

1 — Nature  of  Heat  and  How  It  Is  Measured.  2— How 
Low  Temperatures  Are  Produced.  3— Some  Effects  of 
Low  Temperature  Upon  Matter.  4 — The  Production 
and  Uses  of  High  Temperature.  5 — High  Tempera¬ 
tures  and  the  Rare  Metals.  6 — How  Heat  Travels. 

7 — How  Heat  is  Measured.  8— Expansion  and  Con¬ 
traction.  9— Energy  and  Fuels.  10 — The  Manufacture 
of  Artificial  Ice.  11— Steam  Boilers  and  Engines. 

POPULAR  MECHANICS  BOOK  DEPT. 

CHICAGO,  ILL. 


How  to  Make  a 

Wireless  Set 


By  ARTHUR  MOORE 

A  book  of  96  pages,  bound  in 
cloth,  explaining  in  an  under¬ 
standable  manner  the  construc¬ 
tion  of  an  outfit  suitable  for 
transmitting  four  or  five  miles. 
This  set  can  be  easily  con¬ 
structed  at  a  small  cost  by  any 
boy  of  ordinary  ability. 


Complete  details  with  illustrations 


Price  50  Cents  Postpaid 

Order  of  your  newsdealer  or 
send  direct  to  the  publishers 

Popular  Mechanics  Book  Dept. 

CHICAGO,  ILL. 


3  3125  00012 


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